Peace And Relaxation At Rio Caliente Spa

By Ellen Barone

 

 

An hour west of Guadalajara – Mexico's second largest metropolis of approximately 7-million people – is a seemingly unrelated world of clean air, rolling hills, pine forest, blue sky, and a country pace. A place where life-style weary city folk in search of inspiration, kindred spirits, or spiritual enlightenment, find relaxation and rejuvenation at Rio Caliente Spa: A Mecca for those tired in spirit and body.

 

From the moment we arrived, the sense of escape from ordinary life was immediately apparent: A palpable sense of freedom in the dry air. Serenity and a lack of pretension permeated the simple setting. Equal parts New Age and old hippie, summer camp and spiritual retreat, Rio Caliente is a wellspring for those who are worn out and want to soak up peace and nature in the absence of the commercial or artificial.

 

Set amidst a lovely narrow valley in the Primavera (springtime) Forest at 5,100-feet, The Ranch (as Rio Caliente is casually called) sprawls its 24 rural acres above the volcanic lake which supplies the thermal waters for its 4 pools, 50 guest rooms and cottages, and the steam for its volcanic steam room. Thirty miles to the west an extinct volcano rises; Mt. Tequila. Its last eruption, estimated at more than 200,000 years ago, smothered the valley with ash (tuff), volcanic glass (obsidian), and pumice, hundreds of feet deep.

 

Last week, my sister Cheryl (visiting from rain-soaked Portland, Oregon) and I made the hour-and-a-half long drive from our winter-base in Ajijic (20 miles south of Guadalajara) to Rio Caliente. In search of peace and quiet, health and healing, we set off for our girl's-getaway with e-mailed driving instructions, the sunroof open and Salsa music playing in the CD player. It was a glorious day of dry-air, sunshine and dazzling blue sky- typical weather for a climate which National Geographic rates as the world's second best.

 

Once beyond the industrial outskirts of Guadalajara, we turned onto the cobbled streets of the small pueblo of La Primavera. There are no signs pointing the way to Rio Caliente. We stopped frequently to ask for directions. After buying a coconut from one roadside vendor who helped us, we giggled at the sight of the coconut in the car's cup holder; its top chopped off just enough to allow a plastic straw through which we sipped the agua dulce (sweet water) inside."Si, si señora, siga dercho, está alli," (Yes, yes, Mrs., continue straight ahead, it is there) they reassured us. We had our doubts that we'd ever arrive when the road diminished to little more than a dusty mountain track, climbing higher into the heart of state forest lands of Montezuma pines and net leaf oaks.

 

Finally the road emerged into a long, narrow valley. We knew we were close when we saw the river, and beyond, an oasis of red tiled roofs, adobe and brick cottages, flowering bougainvillea, steaming pools, towering eucalyptus trees, free-ranging horses and an enormous vegetable garden. We had arrived at Rio Caliente.

 

For nearly ten years I'd been hearing tales of the healing powers of Rio Caliente from a fiercely partisan cadre of alternative health aficionados.

 

What's behind the magic?

 

Certainly it's the awe-inspiring landscape — the bittersweet scent of pine that drifts through the clear, dry air; the dazzling blue sky. Or perhaps it's the exotic species of colorful birds — painted redstarts, black vented and streak back orioles, russet crowned mot mots, vermilion flycatchers, curve billed thrashers, and golden vireo – that inhabit the forest.

 

Upon meeting British-born owner, Caroline Durston, however, it was obvious that Rio Caliente's popularity and longevity (she's been with the spa since 1975 and has managed to maintain surprisingly affordable rates) is due to her profound faith in the restorative powers of a fresh vegetarian diet, energy-building exercise, and simple resting. Caroline's way of life is to be conscious of living in accord with the planet. Many of the spa's vegetables and herbs are grown in its organic gardens and meals are prepared from fresh ingredients. Leftovers are cycled back to the resident horses or to the garden compost. Use of insecticides is non-existent; detergents and cleaning compounds are simple. Sheets and towels dry in the sun and wind, toilet paper in undyed and unperfumed, and plastic is kept to a minimum.

 

Lodging is simple and cozy. Each room has a fireplace, private bath with shower or tub, and comfortable beds. Our spacious patio cottage was decorated with local furniture and crafts, sans telephone or TV (like all rooms at Rio Caliente). A fire in the cool mountain climate was a welcome luxury. I fell asleep watching the reflection of the flickering flames dance on the ceiling.

 

If you're the type who likes vacations as jam-packed and stressful as your life at home, or if you have a closet full of chic exercise wear, then Rio Caliente is not for you. Historically a healing place for the Huichol Indian culture, the spa's focus is on renewal and rejuvenation, and on providing treatments that allow retreat from an over-charged life. Guests set their own level of activity, ranging from hiking, horseback riding, yoga, Tai Chi, swimming and water exercise, to a soak in the pool or just sitting in the sun with a good book. The biggest decision of our stay was whether to have our massage in the morning or the evening.

 

Caroline suggested a session with South African Bio-Resonance expert, Diarmuid (Dermot) Milligan, for Cheryl, a long-time chronic fatigue and fibromyalgia sufferer. Originating in Germany, Bio-Resonance is a non-invasive diagnostic and therapeutic approach to wellness using electrical wavelengths. Its goal is to neutralize negative frequencies (the cause of illness) by harmonizing the positive and restore the body's own self-regulatory ability. Unhealthy frequencies can be identified then treated by finding out what is blocking the body's innate ability to regulate them.

 

Wired-up to the bio-resonance machine for an hour, Dermot evaluated Cheryl's electromagnetic response to various toxins. After studied analysis, he concluded that her body has a therapy block due to residual toxicity from pharmaceutical medications and suggested she see a bio-resonance therapist on her return to Portland, which she plans to do.

 

In addition to bio-resonance, Rio Caliente offers other alternative therapies, such as homeopathy, flower remedies and acupressure, as well as massage, scalp treatment, reflexology, facials, manicures and pedicures, volcanic clay mud wraps, dermabrasion, and magnetic clay detox foot baths.

 

Of course Rio Caliente's main attraction is exactly that – the river. At Rio Caliente, the source of the healing waters is a deep underground volcanic lake that supplies numerous springs and waterfalls along the river that flows along three of the spa's boundaries. The waters rise at temperatures as high as 157 degrees Fahrenheit and have been tapped to provide pure thermal waters for the spa. Their mineral content is a particularly beneficial (and odorless) combination of salts and minerals, including small doses of lithium (a mood stabilizer).

 

Fortunately the spa's rates, which begin at $152 a day for a single or $128 each for a double, including all meals and complete program of activities, are as inviting as its waters.

 

So what are you waiting for?

 

 

How to Get There:

There are numerous airlines that fly to Guadalajara, Mexico. Reliable taxis are for hire at the airport in Guadalajara that will make the hour-long drive to Rio Caliente.

 

What to Bring:

Hiking boot for guided hikes into the forest and sandals for everywhere else are all the footwear you'll need. Dress is no-pressure casual, with layers for cool mornings and evenings and warm afternoons. If you want alcohol, you'll have to supply your own. (Mount Tequila, home to tequila production, is not far away.)

 

What to See and Do:

 Day trips offered include shopping excursions to Guadalajara and the artisan villages of Tlaquepaque and Tonala, a tour of a lovely tequila hacienda, the small colonial town of Magdalena, and scenic Lake Teuchitlan. 

Travel expert Ellen Barone did what many of us only dream of doing: at the age of 35, she traded a successful academic career for the wild blue yonder and set out to explore the world and herself. In the decade since that intrepid decision, she has turned passion into profession, journeying to more than 60 countries in search of evocative images and life-enriching adventures. For more information visit her web site at http://ellenbarone.com.