Assymetrical Baby Surprise Jacket

by ysolda on July 16, 2007

Surprise! My crazy attempt to knit the Baby Surprise Jacket without the pattern actually worked.
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Obviously my version is far too closely inspired by Elizabeth Zimmerman’s famous design for me to post a full pattern. Although I created this without the original pattern these notes on the modifications I made to the design should work with the pattern.

I wanted to emphasise the lines created by the mitered shaping and to do that I worked the initial decreases as a centered double decrease by slipping 2 together, knitting the next stitch and passing the slipped stitches over it. On the following row I purled this stitch. For the increases I simply worked a m1 on either side of the center stitch and continued to purl this stitch on the wrong side rows.

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Other than the different decreases I followed the design of the original until I’d worked 10 ridges while working the increase rows. At that point I slipped all of the stitches of the left front onto a holder (including the centre stitch). I continued working the remaining stitches as per the original, casting off 6 sts at the top of the right side after 4 more ridges to shape the neck. I continued to work the stitches remaining on the needles as established with the mitred increases until the stitches on the needles lined up with the held stitches (I did 14 ridges from the neck shaping). In the end I would have made the shoulders shorter, I ended up re-doing the seams to make the neck wider. Didn’t want it irritating a baby neck.

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When I came to the left edge I picked up stitches along the vertical edge (one for each ridge) from the right side and then slipped the held stitches from the shoulder side down onto the right needle tip, flipped the work over and knit across them. The rest of the button band border is basically the same as the pattern. I cast off when there were the same number of ridges on the left shoulder as the right – 14. I worked 3 one row buttonholes (from Montse Stanley’s directions in The Handknitter’s Handbook), using 3 stitches each with 8 stitches in between on the 3rd last row.

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I used about 1 and a half skeins of Novita Bambu that my secret pal Heidi sent me and 3.75mm needles. It’s about 8″ across the chest unstretched. The trim is crab stitch with leftover Rowan Bamboo Soft I’m using for the cardigan I’m working on.

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Violetsrose asked: “why is it always knitted in garter stitch? – why can’t it be done in stocking stitch? – it would look so much nicer – let us know if theres any intrinsic reason why it can’t be done in stocking stitch.”

I’m going to answer this question in a slightly circular way, by starting with the answer to the question of why garter stitch is normally used.

Firstly, Elizabeth Zimmerman loved garter stitch, not only because she presumably liked the way it looked and wanted to avoid purling but because it has certain properties that make it ideal for this type of ‘architectural’ construction.

Obviously garter stitch lies flat, so you don’t have to incorporate edgings to prevent curling into your garment.

Generally the row gauge of garter stitch is roughly approximate to double the stitch gauge. This makes things like picking up stitches along a vertical edge simple and it also makes the type of mitered shaping used in this design work simply. If you tried to make a stocking stitch mitered square by either increasing or decreasing on either side of a central stitch on every second row you wouldn’t end up with a perfect square that lay flat. There is no reason why you couldn’t acheive these shapes in stocking stitch – the point is not that it can’t be done, but that it isn’t simple. This mitered square afghan pattern suggests that the basic principle of a stocking stitch mitred square would need 3 increases or decreases at the centre rather than 2.

Perhaps the biggest reason for using garter stitch, and the reason I think it would work better for this design than stocking stitch is that garter stitch stretches in all directions. Stocking stitch stretches far more horizontally than in any other direction. Most standard sweater shapes make use of this property to make sweaters that stretch around the body. Clearly the direction of the knitting is not constant in this pattern and so a fabric that stretches in every direction is ideal. A stocking stitch version might not fit so well, or for so long and that’s pretty important given how fast babies grow.
Personally I like garter stitch, it can work really well with handpainted yarns or interesting textures, but to be honest it is something that has grown on me over time so I can understand why you might not like it. So this design could be worked in stocking stitch, but it would be quite a different sweater and I don’t think it would have the same simple neatness of the garter stitch design. I did find a couple of stocking stitch versions, one in progress and one machine knit with cables and ribbed borders that looks like it turned out pretty well.

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{ 23 comments… read them below or add one }

Lesa July 17, 2007 at 12:23 am

I am also working on a baby surprise jacket. I am even doing it in a lovely hand painted yarn. I like garter stitch. It lays flat, and it is reversible, which is great for a baby. Spills can be hidden by turning the coat around! ;) That is just the mother of two in me talking.

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Leah July 17, 2007 at 12:26 am

I’m impressed with your ingenuity to work it out without the pattern. I love the colors you chose.

I also like the way you explained all the “why’s” of garter stitch. Nicely done!

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Webbo July 17, 2007 at 12:34 am

Clever and lovely. I’m a garter-stitch fan too. I love it for the all-important stretch, but also for its satisfyingly chunky look.

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Ilona July 17, 2007 at 1:53 am

You are a fabulous knitter! Your knitting is very good……you also knit very fast. cheers

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Sarah July 17, 2007 at 3:08 am

I loved all the technical knowledge here. Isn’t it great how knitting is so creative and so full of physical laws and rules?

Anyway, I also love love love the colors of the baby jacket. So cute!

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Gudrun July 17, 2007 at 3:38 am

Well I agree with everyone else..a wonderful interpretation of this pattern…I’m sure Zimmerman would be impressed…..those colours are so zesty!

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elizabeth July 17, 2007 at 3:53 am

I love this! I just finished knitting my first baby surprise jacket and the recipient’s mother loved it and wants, like, ten hundred more. I’ll definitely be referencing your notes for my next BSJ.

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Shannon July 17, 2007 at 7:37 am

Oooh lovely – well done. I like it better than the original.

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Vanessa July 17, 2007 at 9:02 am

Wow – it looks great! I love how the edging colour contrasts really nicely.

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Ing. July 17, 2007 at 9:40 am

It seems almost coincidental that I just finished EZ BSJ without a pattern and know another knitter who is trying to accomplish it without external help. Must say it was great fun to figure out the construction.
You can see mine at: http://runningaroundwithscissors.blogspot.com/2007/07/inspiration.html

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Susanna July 17, 2007 at 9:49 am

Ysolda, the jacket is very, very pretty and, as ever, your explanation of the different properties of garter and stocking stitch is very clear and much fuller than other explanations I’ve seen. It helps me a lot in thinking about these things. Garter stitch is growing on me too and I think perhaps there’s yet another (non-technical) reason why EZ loved it. Garter stitch clothes and articles are clearly handmade. I believe it’s not very easy for machines to do garter stitch. (Though I’m willing to be corrected on this.) We’re proud that our fabrics are hand-made and home-made and we like a stitch that proclaims this. (Knitters aren’t alone in this. Think of all the on-line embroiderers and sewers and how they love frayed edges and ultra-simple running stitches.) Perhaps our mothers and grandmothers were more comfortable knitting articles that looked closer to the machine-made stuff. Perhaps they thought it was more “professional”. I don’t think the new generation of knitters has this hang-up. EZ was of course ahead of her time.

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Sarah July 17, 2007 at 12:03 pm

Ooh lovely, I really like the crab stitch edging. Great work on figuring it out.

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Violetsrose July 17, 2007 at 1:41 pm

Thank you so much for that explanation – of course now that I think about it, it makes sense – I’m still not a fan of garter stitch – for texture and stretchiness my preferred stitch is always moss stitch – I’m going to try working one of these out for myself too

Yours is the prettiest one of these I’ve ever seen – I love the colour (lime green is my favourite) and the asymetrical-ness is gorgeous – somehow you’ve managed to make it look totally sophisticated – gorgeous!

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Violetsrose July 17, 2007 at 2:35 pm

I have spent my lunch hour looking at photos of the BSJ and working it out in my head and I suddenly realised what I don’t like about it and why yours is so beautiful – its not the garter stitch at all! – its the fact that EZs version has the diagonal on the front ending half-way down the garment – it throws out the design and looks weird – yours has the diagonal going all the way to the corner and this makes it look so much better!!!

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pinsandneedles July 17, 2007 at 3:09 pm

I have come to appreciate garter stitch after knitting with chunky yarn. I, too, used to think that stockinette is always the way to go because of its look, but not always so. Thank you for the explaination because now it makes much more sense. The baby surprise looks lovely.

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yvonnep July 17, 2007 at 5:44 pm

I love it, Ysolda. Special colours too. Now I’m the granddaughter of a carpenter and would you please reassure me about the sleeves – they are both the same length, aren’t they? It’s just an optical illusion, isn’t it, that one is shorter than the other?

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Mary July 17, 2007 at 8:34 pm

That looks so cool, especially with the asymmetrical fronts! I really need to get her books, cause I want to try out this and other patterns for myself, but I don’t think I would be able to figure out the pattern for myself.

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risa July 18, 2007 at 3:25 am

what a great baby sweater/jacket! i want one for my non-existant baby of the future!

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Mindie July 20, 2007 at 12:48 pm

You know, my brother can look at a three dimensional puzzle and just ‘see’ how it all fits together, me, I can’t even get to grips with this sweater. One day I’m going to have to find someone with a small baby just so I can knit it and see. I hadn’t heard of EZ when mine were small! You must have my brothers special way of ‘seeing’ things to be able to put this together yourself. It’s a very special thing, brilliant!

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Hege July 24, 2007 at 8:00 pm

It’s beautiful and I love the colour!

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Mollita May 8, 2008 at 10:54 pm

Great little jacket. I agree with the commenter who prefers your version to the original– with those diagonals going all the way. Any chance you could adapt this to an adult size? I think it’d make quite a chic jacket.

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Lynne June 10, 2008 at 7:50 pm

Your assymetrical baby surprise sweater is beautiful. Where can I get the pattern?
Thank you.
Lynne

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mayrinck hallak June 19, 2008 at 12:46 pm

Seu BSJ ficou lindo!!! Sonho em tecer um mas não sei nem como começar!!! Poderia me enviar a receita para mim? Sou do Brasil e aqui não consigo de jeito nenhum. Parabéns!! Fique com Deus!! Beijos da
Mayrinck

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