Skull Illusion Scarf

scarf1.jpg

Le modèle en française


The pattern is given as a chart and written out (thanks go to Mary Christo for taking the time to write the chart out and for sharing her work). Work from one or the other (or both!) depending on which is easiest for you to follow. I find a chart much easier to keep track of, but some people hate them. If you’re using the chart it is a good idea to tick off or highlight each row as you complete it so you don’t loose your place and end up with deformed skulls.
I did 3 repeats then turned the chart upside down and followed it in the same way so that the skulls on the 2nd half of the scarf were upside down (when the scarf is worn then they all end up hanging down the same way). When you invert the pattern you still want to be knitting 1 right side row followed by a wrong side row in the pattern in each colour.

Other people have done them the same way up all along or just worked one or two repeats at each end of the scarf and done the neck bit in plain stripes. (If you decide to do that remember to do garter stitch not plain stockinette – so it doesn’t curl up).

Yarn: any dk or worsted weight yarn in two colours. Smooth yarns will show the skulls better.
How much you need will depend on your yarn and how long you make the scarf – I used about 100gm of each colour.
Needles: to give a reaonably tight gauge with your choosen yarn that still drapes well.

Directions: Cast on 31 sts in skull colour. Beginning at bottom right corner follow chart. On the chart pink is the background and white is the skull & crossbones. Because each colour stripe is only two rows the yarn can be carried up the sides without being cut.
chart for the skull illusion knit scarf

skullillusionchart.gif

Alternate written directions by Mary Christo:
Nb: Rows in italics are the background.
Row 1: K
Row 2: P
Row 3: K
Row 4: K

Row 5: K
Row 6: P5, K2, P17, K2, P5
Row 7: K
Row 8: K3, P4, K17, P4, K3

Row 9: K
Row 10:P3, K4, P17, K4, P3
Row 11:K
Row 12:K3, P4, K17, P4, K3

Row 13:K
Row 14:P3, K5, P15, K5, P3
Row 15:K
Row 16:K6, P4, K11, P4, K6

Row 17:K
Row 18: P8, K4, P7, K4, P8
Row 19:K
Row 20:K10, P4, K3, P4,K10

Row 21:K
Row 22:P12, K3, P1,K3, P12
Row 23:K
Row 24:K14, P3, K14

Row 25:K
Row 26:P14, K3, P14
Row 27:K
Row 28:K12, P7, K12

Row 29:K
Row 30:P10, K4, P3, K4, P10
Row 31:K
Row 32:K8, P4, K7, P4, K8

Row 33:K
Row 34:P6, K4, P11, K4, P6
Row 35:K
Row 36:K3, P5, K15, P5, K3

Row 37:K
Row 38:P3, K4, P17, K4, P3
Row 39:K
Row 40:K3, P4, K17, P4, K3

Row 41:K
Row 42:P5, K2, P17, K2, P5
Row 43:K
Row 44:K8, P3, K3, P3, K3, P3, K8

Row 45:K
Row 46:P8, K3, P3, K3, P3, K3, P8

End of crossbones, beginning base of skull

Row 47:K
Row 48:K8, P3, K3, P3, K3, P3, K8

Row 49:K
Row 50:P8, K3, P3, K3, P3, K3, P8
Row 51:K
Row 52:K8, P15, K8

Row 53:K
Row 54:P8, K15, P8
Row 55:K
Row 56:K8, P15, K8

Row 57:K
Row 58:P6, K19, P6
Row 59:K
Row 60:K6, P19, K6

Row 61:K
Row 62:P6, K19, P6
Row 63:K
Row 64:K6, P19, K6

Row 65:K
Row 66:P6, K8, P3, K8, P6
Row 67:K
Row 68:K5, P9, K3, P9, K5

Row 69:K
Row 70:P5, K9, P3, K9, P5
Row 71:K
Row 72:K5, P4, K4, P2, K1, P2, K4, P4, K5

Row 73:K
Row 74:P5, K3, P5, K5, P5, K3, P5
Row 75:K
Row 76:K5, P3, K6, P3, K6, P3, K5

Row 77:K
Row 78:P5, K3, P6, K3, P6, K3, P5
Row 79:K
Row 80:K5, P3, K6, P3, K6, P3, K5

Row 81:K
Row 82: P6, K19, P6
Row 83:K
Row 84:K7, P17, K7

Row 85:K
Row 86:P8, K15, P8
Row 87:K
Row 88:K10, P11, K10

Row 89:K
Row 90:P10, K11, P10
Row 91:K
Row 92:K

Finishing: Weave in ends. Block (some scarfs have needed to be re-blocked periodically to prevent them from curling up)
Optional: Using a crochet hook and leftover yarn from the scarf add fringe to either end.

Copyright Notice: Copyright on design, pattern and chart – Ysolda S. Teague; copyright on written version of chart – Mary Christo. Pattern available for your own, personal, non-commercial use only.

Comments or questions – support@ysolda.com